Misc

Re: which digital to choose?

On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 18:58:35 GMT, "Jeremy" wrote:

>
>"John" wrote in message
>news:nel111hr4tu25rot93jptef6d48c5elppf@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 11:14:45 -0500, "dr bob" wrote:
>>
>> >Not to dampen your spirits, but I still use a Pentax Spotmatic 45 years
>old
>> >and still operating perfectly.
>>
>> Geez that's nearly as old as my Linhof though only about half
>> as old as my Kodak. Anyone know of a way to date a Speed Graphic ?
>
>If every purchaser were like us, the camera manufacturers would have gone
>out of business decades ago.

Dunno. I think Zone VI probably made about $1000 on my 4X5 and
I'm pretty sure that Linhof has a higher margin.

>The manufacturers NEED to sell the sizzle, rather than the steak, if they
>are to keep sales up.

Again, it depends on the clients that they're selling too and
the margins. What you're observing is typical in 35mm but not so in
the larger formats. Unfortunately the 645 format became very
competitive and Bronica finally bit the dust after 12 years of pretty
serious floundering and Mamiya introducing a AF POS that I'd gladly
take an ETRSi over any day of the century.

>Big deal!

Yep. As if in-camera metering is even necessary. I use a
Gossen Luna Star F2 and a Minolta Spotmeter F. Perhaps that's why the
mercury cell in my Nikkormat FTN is still working after all these
years ?

>But it seemed back then that EVERYBODY who owned a Pentax wanted to upgrade
>to the latest whizbang body.

Have to admit, I loved the LX. Simply the very best 35mm
camera system ever built.

>Look at digital today: Every time the manufacturers add another MegaPixel
>to the cameras' sensors, there are tons of people that feel the need to
>"upgrade."

Typical of computer hardware I'm afraid.

>Look, I like progress as much as the next guy, but this upgrade migration
>thing can make a guy go broke! We pay big dollars for what is usually
>marginal increases in performance or functionality. Perhaps pros can
>justify this, but we amateurs have other mundane things to do with our
>money--like pay home mortgages.

And taxes. And gas. And medical bills.

>If I were going to get into photography all over again, I'd buy a good, used
>Rolleiflex. I'd pay to have it CLAed and I'd get another 50 years out of
>it.

I think I'd stick with the FM3A or the D-3HP. Both are well
built and offer a broad range of optics. Both have the features I need
though the F-3HP doesn't have a very high flash sync.

>I've accumulated FIFTEEN prime lenses, and I find that 85-90% of my
>landscape work is done on the normal lens--yes, the lowly normal
>lens--because it does not introduce apparent perspective distortion to the
>image.

I have 5 lenses for my Nikon's. 28/2.8, 50/1.4, 100/2.5,
135/2.8 and a 70~210/2.8~4.0. Each is extremely sharp and the 135/2.8
is remarkable.

>Even when I shoot with my digicam, I zoom the lens to an approximately 50mm
>focal length (equivalent). Carrying a bag of other lenses around did
>nothing for me. Too bad it took me 25 years to realize that.

Well it kept you in shape ! But it's not so good for the back.
I have a Tamrac 747 bag that I'm hoping to sell someday. I used to
carry two complete systems with me when I went for
wildlife/backpacking photography. Thing must have weighed 80 pounds
when loaded !

>A decent photographer can produce good results almost in spite of the
>equipment that he is using. The equipment part is of relatively little
>importance.

I can't completely agree. It starts with the subject,
lighting, composition then the camera and film. It all goes into the
mix.

Regards,

John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.puresilver.org
Please remove the "_" when replying via email

 

Article References :

Re: which digital to choose?
PHOTOgraphic Film Review, January Issue
Re: which digital to choose?
which digital to choose?
Re: which digital to choose?
Re: which digital to choose?
 

See Also : Re: macro questions

On 2006-07-25 16:06:20 -0400, "Cisco Kid" said:

> I'm thinking of buying a macro lens but I have a few questions. Looking
>
> at some sites, I noticed macro photography is much more than just
> buying and using a macro lens. In a generic, explanantion-friendly way
> - what is macro photography? I'm not looking for a scholarly these
> paper on the subject.
>
> Also, why can't I just use a telephoto lens? What does a macro lens do
> better than a telephoto lens?
>
>
> Lastly, being that I am mainly a landscape/nature photographer, what
> kind of subjects are we talking about - small bugs and plants/flowers?
>
>
> CK


Classically, Macro Photography was a photograph of an object taken at
1:1 magnifaction or greater (that is life size). Dispense with that
notion. It commonly is used to refer to close up photography. Back
in ancient history (the 60's and 70's) a Macro 35mm lens was generally
used to refer to a lens which had between a 1:1 and a 1:2 reporduction
ratio at its closest focus. At 1:1 a bee photographed on a flower,
would be the actual size on the negative or slide that it was in real
life. at 1:2, the bee would be half its real life size. Macro lenses
were also gernerally corrected for flatness of field. ALL normal lens
have a curved field. That is the, the focus plane is not the same
across the entire width of the lens. On really good lenses, this
curvature of field is minor and we consider the lens to have excellent
edge to edge sharpness. When photographing 3-dimensional objects more
than a couple of feet from the camera, these issues are not visible.
However, when taking a close up of a coin, at 1:1, this curvature of
field is an issue. So, true macro lenses contained elements to correct
this. This holds true for fixed length macro lenses for SLRS'' (i.e.
Nikon, Canon, Minolta, Pentax etc.)

Then life got muddied. The marketers got in the way of engineering.
Some bright bulb discovered he/she could add 50 bucks or more on the
the price of a zoom lens by adding a "macro" setting. At best, that
really was a closer focus lenses than the equivalent non-macro version,
at worst is was printing on the box, and extra engraving on the lens
barrel, but no real "macro" added. Again things progress. The
computer engineering that was not available to the lens designers of
y'or, allow todays engineers to produce zoom lenses which have
credible close focusing capability. Notice, I did not say macro.
Compensating for curvature of field is , I don't believe, yet possible
in a complex zoom lens.

I own two macro lenses. On is the Nikkor 55mm macro (which Nikon
confusingly calls micro) and the Nikon 105mm F4 macro (also confusingly
called micro). The flatness of field in the 55mm is extraordinary.
However, at 1:2 with the lens, the front of the lens is about 2 inches
from the subject. Makes photographing bugs nearly impossible. I don't
know of any "cooperative" bugs or bugs holding out on a modeling
contract (and hense cooperative subjects ) The distance doubles
with 105. It is much more convenient for wildlife photography. Better
yet would be the 200 Micro.

The other issue is lens speed. At macro range, or even close focus,
the depth of field is very shallow, measured in fractions of an inch.
You need a small aperature to compensate. Even then, its still
fractions of an inch. Also, focusing at close distances is tough,
even for AF systems. Most zooms do their "macro" at the full zoom
extension. If your zoom is a variable aperature, this means the thing
may at F4.5 or 5.6 (or worse). F4.5 is marginal for focusing
accurately at close focus, and for my eyes F 5.6 is impossible.

What do you need? Certainly you can take lots of great flower shots
with a decent close focusing telephoto or zoom lens. With some work
and careful selection of subject you can take some amazing ones. Bugs?
or other small objects, I would opt for a 100mm or better true macro
lens. The choices will depend on your camera brand. Taking really
good macro shots requires time and patience and every issue that
effects every photograph is magnified greatly. You might as well
remove one thing form the equation and get a decent macro lens. BTW
there is an added benefits. Most 100-110mm macros are F2.8 or there
abouts. The 100mm focal length makes a great portrait lens on 35mm and
an OK one on 1.6x digitals. The faster speed makes for some better low
light portraits and because of wide aperature, it is easier to throw
the backgorund out of focus.... dual purpsoe lens.

Sorry for the long essay.. I hope it was of some help.

--
Jim